Cycling the South Island of New Zealand

Day 24 (March 9, 2009)


Near Hanmer Springs Waiau Gorge Bridge Hanmer Gorge
Alps Near Hanmer Springs Waiau Gorge Bridge Hanmer Gorge

I have two days to cycle the 80 miles back to Christchurch, so I can take it easy. I had a relaxing gourmet breakfast at the B&B - the best I've had on the trip - and then wandered around the town a bit. It reminds me of Aspen, both in terms of location and scenery, and also the feel of the place, although it is much smaller.

I eventually set off down the valley. It's a very pretty day with bright blue sky and puffy white clouds; ideal for taking photos. The wind is still quite strong, and in the same direction as yesterday. Since I started off by doubling back on yesterday's track, the wind was generally a help, although an occasional bluster would bring me almost to a full stop. The difficult section of yesterday was a breeze, with the wind dead behind. I dawdled along, stopping often to take pictures of the mountain scenery. I'm glad I went up to Hanmer Springs, not so much for the hot springs as for one last visit to the mountains, on a gorgeous day too. The cycle back down was worth the effort of the ride up yesterday.

I'm having a light lunch in Culverden, a "real" town as opposed to a tourist trap, in a nice little bakery. I could lunch on the smells alone!
Old and New
Old and New Outside Culverden Bakery

There was enough headwind on the last 15 mile stretch to make me feel I've done enough work to justify stopping here in Waikari as planned, and rain clouds are gathering too (the forecast is for rain spreading from the south, and then clearing again). The scenery on this last stretch was less interesting, cycling across a flat plane with the mountains behind me, It's about 2:30 and I'm relaxing in the pleasant Waikari Teashop so I don't arrive at the B&B too early. There's a steam railway here, but I missed the train by 8 days! (It runs the first and third Sundays of the month.)

I'm staying in the Cyclists' Retreat mentioned in the Pedallers' Paradise guide as having dinner, bed and breakfast, and "friendly photogenic sheep". What a marvellous way to end the trip this turned out to be! The hosts Brian and Julia are both so kind and friendly. They are keen cyclists and enjoy swapping cycling experiences in NZ and other countries. They have a 10 acre farm, and photogenic sheep are the least of it. I got to feed the chickens and ducks (as well as the sheep, two of which were indeed very friendly and liked being hand fed) and collect eggs from the hen house and pick mushrooms for breakfast tomorrow. Julia served a very substantial (cyclist size!) and delicious dinner with home grown vegetables and salad and home made pie and ice cream for dessert. And I was made to feel completely welcome.